If you’ve only wandered around Fanal Forest’s popular Instagram spots, you’re missing out on one of Madeira’s hidden gems – PR 14, the Levada dos Cedros is a stunning hike in Fanal Forest. Recently reopened in late July after months of closure, this trail is a lush, tranquil alternative to the crowds. My initial impressions: serene, green, and a bit wild – in the best way.

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Please note: This hike is recommended only for those who are physically fit and experienced with mountain or levada trails. If you’re unfamiliar with the area or unsure about your abilities, it’s best to go with a local guide. Always check the current trail conditions and weather before starting, and never underestimate Madeira’s changing terrain and climate.

Overview

The trail weaves through the UNESCO‑protected Laurisilva forest, beside the levada, and ends at a beautiful waterfall – a perfect payoff after muddy, misty hiking conditions. The PR trail itself is a one-way route but you can also walk a loop through the Fanal area.

• Distance: 7.2km one-way, 12km loop via Fanal
• Elevation: 250m one way, 400m loop
• Duration: 3 hours, 4.5 hours loop
• Difficulty: Intermediate (slippery paths, steep sections)

What to know before you go

• Traffic at Fanal: the parking fills around ~10:30 am and tour buses arrive.
• Try to get there early. Wet, muddy forest: this area is always damp and foggy – good boots and waterproof layers are essential.
• Stairway Challenge: a steep set of stairs connects the levada endpoint back to Fanal; you’ll either climb or descend depending on your preferred loop direction.

Two loop options to hike in Fanal Forest:

Counter‑clockwise (“Stairway of Hell”)

Start at the main Fanal parking, and follow the street down towards the lower trailhead of PR14. If you don’t want to walk on the street, you’ll also find trails just next to it going along the fanal forest. Continue down, crossing the street a couple times, until you reach the trailhead. Now comes my favorite part – the levada walk. Walk gently beside the levada, careful over muddy spots, and don’t miss a short spur up the stairs to a sweeping valley viewpoint. At the levada’s end, you’ll find a lovely riverbed and waterfall. Be careful around the rocks but if conditions allow it’s worth scrambling a bit over the rocks to get a better look at the waterfall.

Then… brace yourself for the stairway of hell: roughly 1 km of steep steps uphill. Non-stop. But at least, once on top, it’s an easy walk to the road and back to the car. I personally prefer this route, because the uphill workout feels super rewarding, and it avoids the knee-jarring descent of the clockwise route.

Clockwise (“Stairway of Pain”)

In this case, I’d recommend to start at the lower trailhead. Make your way along the street/trails to the Fanal region and the upper PR 14 trailhead. Now it’s time to climb down the long staircase which can be tough on the knees. At least you get rewarded with a break at the beautiful waterfall once you reach the bottom. The rest of the hike is mostly level levada trail back to your car. This route is easier cardio, but heavy on knees during the descent.

My personal take I actually prefer the counter‑clockwise route. The staircase is brutal, but it’s steady cardio and no knee stress on the descent. The forest is magical: dense, green, and often mist-shrouded – even when the rest of Madeira is sunny. It’s surprising how few visitors make it beyond the main Fanal viewpoint. Go early to beat the rush at the main region and enjoy the quiet trail!

If you’re planning more Madeira adventures like this, check out my Ultimate Madeira Travel Guide for detailed trails, tips, and itineraries.