When I first moved to Madeira, I was still a vegetarian. That didn’t last long. First, it was the fresh seafood that broke me — so fresh, so tempting, I just had to give in. I stuck with pescatarian for a while, thinking I could make it work. But the more I explored the truly local food spots, the more I realized: avoiding meat on this island is a bit of a challenge. In many traditional snack bars, the only option is a “prego” sandwich — basically steak on bread — and if you ask for a vegetarian option, they’ll likely offer you chicken. Then I started going to the no-menu kind of places. Just meat and bread. That’s when I really couldn’t avoid the espetada anymore — meat skewers grilled over fire, served simply and beautifully. So yeah, eventually I caved. And now? I’m a very happy flexitarian when eating out. No regrets.
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What Is Espetada?
If you’re a meat-eater visiting Madeira, trying an espetada is a must. This dish is a staple of Madeiran cuisine — grilled meat (usually beef), seasoned and skewered, then cooked over open flames. You’ll spot it hanging dramatically on hooks at many restaurants, especially around Funchal’s Old Town.
But honestly? The best espetada dinners I’ve had were outside of the touristy areas. If you’ve found any great ones in Funchal, please let me know in the comments — I’d love to check them out!
Best Espetada Restaurants in Câmara de Lobos
Câmara de Lobos isn’t just the birthplace of poncha — it’s also home to some of my favorite espetada spots on the island:
As Vides
Located in the center of Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, this cozy little place serves a variety of espetada dinners. The atmosphere is welcoming, the wine delicious, and the service always friendly. A great spot if you want to experience a more traditional, local vibe.
Restaurante Santo António
Also in Estreito, this place is a classic. It’s bigger — perfect if you’re going with a group or don’t want to worry about getting a table. One of the highlights is the open kitchen, where you can watch the espetadas being grilled right in front of you. The food is excellent, with various sides to choose from (milho frito and potatoes are my go-tos). The desserts are a bit disappointing, but honestly, after a giant meat skewer and all those sides, who even has room for dessert?
Adega da Quinta
If you prefer your espetada with a view, this place is worth the stop. It has a lovely outdoor area and a nice view down to the water. The menu is similar to other espetada restaurants, but the meat was perfectly grilled and the setting made it special.
A True Local Experience in Caniço
If you’re up for something different, head over to Talho do Caniço. Here, you actually pick your meat fresh from the butcher on one side, then carry it over to the grill area where they cook your espetada right in front of you. The only other things on the menu are bread and drinks. It’s super local and simple — and that’s what makes it so good.
Important to know: they’re closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and on other days it fills up quickly after 7 pm. It’s all standing tables, so get there early if you want a spot without waiting too long. Thursdays seem to be especially popular.
Mountain Espetada Near Camacha
If you’ve got a rental car and are heading up or down from Pico do Arieiro, make a stop at Abrigo do Pastor in Camacha. This mountain restaurant serves up delicious espetada and has a slightly more extensive menu — but honestly, stick with the espetada. It’s what they do best. Also: don’t skip the sweet potato side dish. It’s one of my favorites.
To wrap it up: skip the touristy places in central Funchal and go where the locals eat. Whether it’s Câmara de Lobos, Caniço, or high up in the mountains near Camacha — you’ll get a more authentic (and more delicious) espetada experience.
Want more foodie tips? Check out my post on the best seafood restaurants — or grab the Ultimate Madeira Travel Guide to have all my favorite spots in one convenient PDF download.