Sunrise at Pico do Arieiro is something that lands on almost everyone’s to‑do list when they visit Madeira, and even though I’ve done it countless times, I still enjoy it every single time. This time, though, I set off for a slightly different adventure. Instead of driving up and then coming right back down, I decided to test out the trails: going to pico do arieiro by bus, then hiking back down via the PR 3 Vereda do Burro and PR 3.1 Caminho Real do Monte trails — actually not as far as it sounds, but still enough to feel like a proper day out.

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Please note: This hike is recommended only for those who are physically fit and experienced with mountain trails. If you’re unfamiliar with the area or unsure about your abilities, it’s best to go with a local guide. Always check the current trail conditions and weather before starting, and never underestimate Madeira’s changing terrain and climate.

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Getting to Pico do Arieiro by bus

I wanted to leave the car at home, so I took the bus instead. Considering how narrow and winding the roads up to Pico do Arieiro are, it’s pretty remarkable that there’s a public bus going all the way to the top (1,818 m). The official service from Horários do Funchal departs from central Funchal (by the cable‑car station) at around 6am and also around early afternoon (exact times depend on summer / winter schedule. Check here in advance: http://www.horariosdofunchal.pt/mobile/PicoAreeiro.php). The ride takes roughly 45 minutes. One‑way fare is €3, ticket bought on board.

So, I rolled out of bed at 5:15am, put on my hiking boots, and walked over to the cable‑car area in Funchal. The bus stop was easy to spot — just follow the few tourists with backpacks. Right at 6:00 the bus arrived, I paid cash, chose a seat (the bus was only about a third full), and off we went in quiet, half‑sleepy calm. The driver didn’t stop again, and we arrived at Pico do Arieiro around 6:45am with about 45 minutes to until sunrise.

One big plus: if you go to Pico do Arieiro by bus, it drops you right at the top, just below the radar station, so you skip all the parking chaos that often happens at the top. And for me, first time doing the bus on Madeira – it proved to be simple and surprisingly convenient.

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Sunrise on the peak

It was going into November, so up at the top it was quite chilly — good that I had an extra layer and hoodie, and I even wore a head‑lamp for the early dawn part. To stay warm, I started hiking along the PR1 trail to a viewpoint a little away from the main crowd. Even though it was still dark, cold, and unfortunately quite rainy and cloudy (so the actual sunrise didn’t properly break through), the atmosphere was still magical: the mountain landscape looked mysterious and dramatic in the pre‑dawn light.

Standing there, watching the shifting cloud below the ridge, I reminded myself why I keep coming up here: every sunrise is different. Even when “the sun” doesn’t put on a full show, the colours, the clouds, the mountains — it all adds up to a memory.

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Hike from Pico do Arieiro down to Monte

After waiting until the light properly changed, it was time to start my walk downhill.

Vereda do Burro (PR 3)

The trail called PR 3 starts right next to the café at Pico do Arieiro. The profile: about 6.7 km long, ending at Ribeira das Cales at ~1,130 m elevation. It’s mostly downhill through the Parque Ecologico do Funchal, with lovely views of valleys and ocean, some forest terrain, a river section with little falls, even a couple of donkeys grazing along the path. A few sections are a bit more technical and can be slippery so you have to walk carefully on the rocks downhill, but overall the trail in good condition. I did it in around 2 hours. At the end there’s a visitor centre of the eco‑park and a café (which in my case was still closed — so no coffee stop).

Caminho Real do Monte (PR 3.1)

From Ribeira das Cales I continued on PR 3.1, about 4.2‑5.5 km (depending on source) down to Monte (≈550 m). Early in the trail you pass over to Pico Alto viewpoint (~1,130 m) with big views over Funchal, then the path steepens a lot — you’ll follow old donkey trails, cross the road a few times, and near Monte you go through narrow alleys to arrive in the centre. Because of the steep descent it’s best for hikers without knee issues. I clocked that section in roughly 1  hour. Once in Monte: public toilets are available, and a nice brunch option at Loft on the square. To finish the day: either catch bus 20 into town or for a scenic route take the cable‑car down.

So altogether: 6.7 km + ~4‑5 km downhill, about 3‑4 hours hiking pace, mostly downhill. You can find all details on the PR trails on the official IFCN site here.

Overall, it was a fantastic way to start the day. If you’re coming to Madeira and you’re up for a bit of early rising, I’d highly recommend this combination: up to Pico do Arieiro by bus + sunrise + one‑way hike down. Especially useful for people who want to skip driving up early or don’t have a car. Because you only take the bus up, you don’t need to worry about getting back to your car at the summit.

A few practical tips:

• Check the timetable for the bus (winter vs summer schedule).
• Have a warm layer; it gets quite cold at altitude even if the valley is mild. Bring your headlamp or flashlight!
• Good hiking shoes, the descent is steep especially on PR 3.1!
• Drink lots of water, carry some snacks/coffee — the café at Pico Arieiro and at the end of PR 3 may or may not be open.
• Keep an eye on weather: cloud can roll in and hide the views, but sometimes that also creates dramatic mood (as my cloudy sunrise proved!).
• Look for the yellow & red trail markers that identify the PR paths — staying on the marked route is easy as long as you keep paying attention to the trail!

If you’re curious to explore more but don’t want to go on your own, reach out to me for a guided hiking tour! I’ll be happy to show you around the best trails on the island 🙂