The more my account grows, the more questions I get in my DMs. And I genuinely love it. I try to answer everyone as best as I can, but I’ve noticed something: the same questions keep coming up again and again.
Should I rent a car? What’s the weather like? So I thought it’s time to put everything into one place.
If you find this helpful and want to support my work, you can buy me a coffee (or a Poncha) here:
https://buymeacoffee.com/your_madeira
Spoiler alert: yes, I do recommend renting a car. It makes everything so much easier. If you’re looking for a reliable rental company, check out Star Move Rent a Car and save 10% with code yourmadeira.
But let’s get into the things I really wish I knew before my first trip.
1. Distances look short on the map, but driving takes longer than you think
Madeira looks tiny. And technically it is. But the roads are steep, winding, and slow. What looks like a 20-minute drive can easily turn into 45 minutes or more. One of the biggest mistakes is planning your itinerary by “just going everywhere.” It’s much better to explore one region per day.
A perfect example is Santana. Everyone wants to see the famous houses. They are cute, yes. But after five minutes you’re kind of like… okay, what now? And it’s not exactly around the corner. So if you go, combine it with other things nearby. Do the PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde or head up for a sunset hike to Pico Ruivo. (And yes, if you’re wondering whether Pico Ruivo or Pico do Arieiro is better, I have a full blog post on that.)
2. The weather changes fast. Really fast.
I knew the weather was “unpredictable,” but I didn’t expect it to be this extreme. Just today, I woke up to heavy rain, even some hail (!). Half an hour later, I walked to work without a single drop. By lunchtime, the sun was out and I was sweating in my coat that I absolutely needed in the morning. At the same time, the peaks just 40 minutes away were closed because of snow.
So here’s the takeaway: pack everything. Not just for your trip, but for your day. Always have a warm layer, rain jacket, and even swimwear with you. You might need all three in one day.
3. Different parts of the island have completely different weather
This one surprised me the most. I remember spending three days freezing in the mountains. Then we drove 20 minutes down to the coast and ended up swimming in the ocean. That’s when I discovered the live webcams on netmadeira. Game changer.
In general, the south tends to be sunnier than the north, but it changes constantly. So stay flexible. There’s no point forcing a hike in the rain if you could do it in the sun the next day.
4. Hikes can be closed without warning
This is one of those things that can really ruin your day if you don’t know about it. I’ve personally driven all the way to a hike in the north just to find it closed. Trail conditions change quickly due to weather or maintenance. So before heading out, always check the official PR trail website for current status. Don’t assume you can just show up and hike anything.
5. Renting a car helps a lot and driving is easier than you think
Public transport outside of Funchal is… let’s say limited. The only real alternative is guided tours. I was honestly nervous about driving here at first. On my first trip, I didn’t drive at all. The second time, I had no choice. And it turned out to be totally fine.
Yes, there are steep roads and some narrow streets. But most of the main roads are modern and in excellent condition. You’ll mostly be using the highways that circle the island and connect north to south. The only tricky parts are some small mountain roads and certain narrow streets in Funchal. My best tip: if Google Maps tries to send you down a road that looks like a sidewalk… don’t go. Just wait and let it reroute.
And again, if you’re looking for a rental, Star Move Rent a Car offers 10% off with code yourmadeira. Book your car here: https://starmoverentacar.com
6. Restaurant and café opening times are unpredictable
This one still surprises me sometimes. Many places have unusual hours. Some are closed on Mondays. And Google is not always reliable. Especially outside of Funchal, places operate on their own schedule. A café might say it’s open until midnight, but close at 5pm if it’s quiet. And then there’s the café at Pico do Arieiro, which doesn’t open until 9am… despite sunrise being one of the most popular times to be there.
From a German perspective, that feels like a missed business opportunity. From a Portuguese perspective, it’s just life. So always have a backup plan.
7. One week is not enough to see everything
This is probably the hardest one to accept. You won’t see everything. And that’s okay. Madeira isn’t a checklist destination. It’s a place to experience. Weather, road conditions, and random changes will affect your plans anyway.
So don’t put too much pressure on your itinerary. And don’t compare your trip to perfectly curated Instagram feeds. (Yes, I know… guilty.) Take what the island gives you. It will always be enough.
If you end up having a week of questionable weather… just remember: It’s always sunny at the Poncha bar.
If you want help planning your trip and making the most of your time on the island, check out my travel guides below.
