If you’ve spent more than five minutes researching Madeira, you’ve probably already come across Fanal Forest. The ancient, twisted trees, rolling fog, and almost surreal atmosphere have made it one of the island’s most photographed places. It’s the kind of location that feels like it belongs in a fantasy movie rather than real life.

But over the past few months, I’ve noticed a lot of questions popping up online. Is Fanal closed? Can you still walk through the forest? What’s with all the fences? I was back in Fanal this week, so here’s everything you need to know before your visit.

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Why is Fanal Forest so special?

Fanal is home to some of Madeira’s oldest trees, many of which are estimated to be over 500 years old. The forest forms part of Madeira’s Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is one of the last remaining examples of this ancient subtropical forest that once covered much of southern Europe.

On misty days, the old trees disappear into the fog, their twisted branches creating an almost magical atmosphere. Even after visiting many times, it still feels like stepping into another world.

One of the things I always loved most about Fanal was its openness. You could simply wander around the meadow between the trees, take your time, breathe in the fresh mountain air, and completely lose yourself in the fog. There wasn’t really a right or wrong direction. You just explored, lost all sense of direction in the fog, and eventually pulled out maps to find your way back.

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The downside of popularity

Unfortunately, Fanal’s beauty didn’t stay a secret for long. As social media exploded, so did the number of visitors. Nowadays you’ll often see hikers dressed head to toe in waterproof gear crossing paths with photographers directing someone in a flowing white dress and sandals through the mud with drones flying overhead.

Everyone wants that perfect fairytale photo. The problem is that thousands of people walking wherever they like eventually leave their mark. I only visited Fanal for the first time about two years ago, but even in that short time I’ve noticed a difference. Areas that used to be covered in grass have turned into muddy patches. Informal paths have formed where people repeatedly cut across the landscape. Some of the ancient trees have broken branches from people climbing on them for photos.

To help protect the forest, more fences have gradually been installed around the area. Some trees and groups of trees are now fenced in so people can’t climb them. And recently, a fence has been installed around the entire Fanal area, with only a few designated entry gates. The goal isn’t to stop people from visiting. It’s to control access in order to give nature the chance to recover, reduce further erosion, and prevent additional damage to the fragile ecosystem. At first, many people worried that Fanal had been closed completely. Thankfully, that’s not the case.

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Can you still visit Fanal Forest?

Yes! I visited this week, and you can absolutely still explore the forest.

There are designated entrances where the gates remain open, allowing visitors to walk through the main forest area without paying an entrance fee (for now). Ultimately, the plan is to limit the number of people visiting per day but it is not enforced yet. You can still wander among the famous trees, visit the little lagoon, find the famous Witch Tree, and watch the cows peacefully grazing around the meadow.

All together, the experience is still every bit as magical.

Where is Fanal Forest?

Fanal Forest is located on the Paul da Serra plateau in the northwest of Madeira at approximately 1,200 metres above sea level. From Funchal, the drive takes around one hour.

Because of its elevation, the weather up here is often completely different from the coast. Don’t be surprised if you’re leaving sunny Funchal in shorts and arrive in thick fog and light rain. That’s just part of the Fanal experience.

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How to get there

The easiest way to visit Fanal is by car. There is currently no public transport that goes directly to the forest. From Funchal, you have two main options.

You can drive along the south coast before heading up via Arco da Calheta and passing the Rabaçal area, or you can follow the north coast through São Vicente before climbing up from Ribeira da Janela.

Both routes take about the same amount of time, so if you’re planning a full day exploring the island, I often recommend driving one way there and the other way back. That gives you the chance to see more of Madeira and stop at different viewpoints along the way.

If you don’t want to drive yourself, hiring a taxi is possible, although it can become quite expensive. If you choose this option, I recommend arranging both the journey there and your return in advance.

A more affordable alternative is joining a guided tour. Many northwest island tours include a stop at Fanal. Whether you choose a larger coach tour or a small jeep adventure depends on your travel style.

If you’re looking for a jeep tour, I can highly recommend Desurbanize-te. I’ve always had great experiences with them, and you can save 10% using my affiliate code YOURMADEIRA.

The only downside of organised tours is that you’ll usually only spend a set amount of time at Fanal before moving on.

If you’d rather experience the forest at a slower pace, you can also join me on one of my guided hikes through the area.

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When is the best time to visit?

This is probably the question I get asked most. The honest answer? Nobody can guarantee fog.

Madeira’s weather changes incredibly quickly, especially in the mountains. That said, your best chances of seeing the famous mist are usually in the early morning.

If possible, arrive before 9:30 am. Not only does this increase your chances of atmospheric fog, but you’ll also beat the tour buses. From around 10 am onwards, organised tours begin arriving one after another, and between roughly 11 am and 1 pm the parking area becomes incredibly busy.

By the afternoon, things usually quiet down again. Parking becomes much easier, although there’s also a higher chance that the sun has burned away the clouds.

Personally, I think Fanal is beautiful in every kind of weather. The fog creates that mystical fairytale feeling everyone hopes for, but on clear days you can actually appreciate the incredible shapes of the ancient trees against the blue sky.

Sunset has also become increasingly popular. I was there just a few days ago for sunset and was surprised by how many people had the same idea. It’s nowhere near as crowded as the mid-day, but don’t expect to have the place completely to yourself. If the cloud layer sits below the plateau, the golden evening light filtering through the old trees creates a truly special atmosphere.

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Parking

At the moment, parking is still completely free. There’s a large parking area right next to the main entrance.

During high season, however, it often fills up by mid-morning, with cars lining the roadside for hundreds of metres. Please park responsibly. Don’t block traffic or damage vegetation just to get a slightly shorter walk.

Do you have to pay to visit Fanal?

Currently, visiting the main Fanal area is still free. Although there have been discussions about introducing an entrance fee in the future, nothing has officially been implemented. If you simply want to explore the famous trees and surrounding meadow, you don’t need a ticket.

However, if you’re planning to hike one of the official walking trails, such as PR13 Vereda do Fanal or PR14 Levada dos Cedros, you’ll need the standard Madeira hiking permit, which can be purchased online through Simplifica. Both trails are beautiful and, compared to the main forest area, usually much quieter.

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Facilities

There are public toilets next to the main parking area. To be honest, they’ve seen better days. Don’t expect toilet paper or soap, so bringing tissues and hand sanitiser is a good idea.

Talking about tissues though, please don’t leave them behind in the forest. Even though they seem harmless, they take a surprisingly long time to decompose and are unfortunately something I regularly see along Madeira’s hiking trails.

There are also picnic tables nearby and a camping area with barbecue facilities. There isn’t currently a café or restaurant at Fanal, so make sure to bring plenty of water and a few snacks.

What should you wear?

If you spend ten minutes in Fanal, you’ll probably see every type of outfit imaginable. Flip flops. Summer dresses. Full waterproof hiking gear.

Remember: Even though it’s one of Madeira’s most famous photography spots, you’re still in the mountains. Layers are always your best friend.

Bring a waterproof jacket, even if the forecast looks good. The fog alone can leave you surprisingly wet. Pack something warm too. Temperatures are usually much cooler than in Funchal. Yesterday I left Funchal in 25°C sunshine and arrived in Fanal where it was only 18°C, foggy and drizzling.

Good footwear is also important. Hiking shoes or trail shoes are ideal because the ground can quickly become muddy and slippery.

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Enjoy the forest, not just the photo

Fanal really is one of Madeira’s most magical places. But I’d encourage you to visit without having one specific Instagram photo in mind. The weather changes by the minute, and if you’re chasing one exact shot, there’s a good chance you’ll leave disappointed.

Instead, wander slowly through the forest. Look beyond the famous Witch Tree. Watch the cows peacefully grazing beneath the ancient branches. That’s the real magic of Fanal.

And while you’re there, remember that you’re visiting an incredibly fragile ecosystem that has survived for hundreds of years.

Please leave no rubbish behind, including tissues.

Don’t climb on the trees or break branches for photos.

Give the cows plenty of space.

And stay on the designated paths wherever possible so future visitors can experience the same incredible place.

Finally, keep in mind that regulations at Fanal are changing as conservation efforts continue. It’s always worth checking the latest information before your visit.

Looking for more Madeira travel tips? My Ultimate Madeira Travel Guide includes my favourite viewpoints, hidden gems, hikes, and restaurants to help you plan the perfect trip, including plenty of ideas to combine with your visit to Fanal.