How big is Madeira actually? And how long does it take to drive around it? These are questions I get asked all the time.
And honestly, Madeira is not that big at all. This little piece of paradise is only about 60 km long and just about 22 km tall. Yes, you can absolutely drive around the entire island. In less than a day. And that’s exactly what I did. Get started with Star Move Rent-a-Car and use code yourmadeira for 10% off your rental. You can book here (this discount is an affiliate partnership).
Before I take you along on my full island roadtrip, let’s talk about what driving on Madeira is really like. Because I know a lot of you are a bit nervous about it.
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Madeira Road Infrastructure
When people think about driving on Madeira, they imagine narrow alleys, insanely steep streets and endless winding mountain roads. And yes, those exist. But mostly on smaller local roads.
The main roads are actually very well maintained and surprisingly easy to drive. There is essentially a circular road network that allows you to drive around the entire island. In fact, it only takes about 3.5 hours to drive all the way around Madeira without stops.
The main highway, called the Via Rápida, connects Caniçal in the east with Ribeira Brava in the south west, passing through Funchal. This stretch alone takes only about 40 minutes and is by far the fastest and easiest part of the drive. Outside of that, you’ll mostly be on one lane roads, but they are generally wide and in good condition. Madeira loves tunnels. There are loads of them, which makes driving much quicker than it used to be.
The least developed stretches are along the north coast between Arco de São Jorge and Ponta Delgada and on the west coast between Porto Moniz and Ponta do Pargo. Fewer tunnels, narrower roads and more curves. But also some of the most breathtaking scenery on the entire island. Personally, I love the drive in the north through Boaventura. It feels remote, lush, wild and incredibly green.
What to Know About Driving on Madeira
Driving here is not for everyone, but if you take it slow and follow the rules, it’s absolutely manageable.
A few important things to keep in mind:
• There are lots of tunnels. Keep your lights on.
• Roundabouts are everywhere. Most have two lanes. Use the outer lane only if you take the first exit. Otherwise use the inner lane and signal when leaving.
• Streets can be steep. Use lower gears going uphill and engine braking downhill to avoid overheating your brakes.
• When parking on a hill, leave the car in first gear if facing uphill and reverse if facing downhill. Turn your wheels to the side.
• Bus and truck drivers are fearless. Always give them space on narrow turns.
• Passing is allowed in tunnels unless marked otherwise. This surprises many visitors, but it actually makes sense because it’s one of the few places with long straights on the island.
• Speed limits are usually 50 km/h in towns and 90 km/h outside. On some main roads you’ll see a small sun symbol with +10 km/h, meaning you’re allowed to drive faster in good weather. Honestly, one of my favorite road signs.
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Now let’s get to the actual road trip.
My One Day Island Loop
I started in Funchal and drove counter clockwise around the island. I mixed a few must see spots with lesser known viewpoints that I personally love. The key is to start early, take your time and enjoy the viewpoints rather than rushing from place to place.
Miradouro Francisco Álvares de Nóbrega – Machico
Machico was the original capital of Madeira when the Portuguese explorers first settled here. It’s also home to one of the island’s two sandy beaches, with sand imported from Morocco. From this viewpoint you get beautiful views over the valley, the harbor, the promenade and all the way to the São Lourenço peninsula, often called the dragon tail because of its shape.
A Rampa Drinks and Food – Maroços
Yes, we were already hungry. This small local spot serves amazing rotisserie chicken with Bolo do Caco or Pão de Casa (recommended). Authentic, simple and very local. There’s also a little fruit stand at the entrance. If you want real local vibes, this is it.
Miradouro do Curtado – Faial
A small detour off the main road brings you to this incredible viewpoint above Faial. From here you see Penha de Águia, also known as Eagle’s Rock, dramatically rising from the landscape. On clear days you can again spot São Lourenço – now from the opposite side.
Pico do Redondo – Santana
Heading up towards Pico Ruivo, we stopped at Pico do Redondo. It’s often overlooked but absolutely worth it. A short walk from the parking area brings you to a viewpoint that often sits above the clouds. One of those magical Madeira mountain moments that makes you stop and just breathe for a second.
Miradouro do Cemitério do Boaventura
The roads here get smaller and more winding, so we took a little breather at this quiet viewpoint. On one side you have dramatic coastline views, on the other lush green mountains rising straight up behind you. This part of the island feels incredibly wild and untouched.
Espaço Infinito – Seixal
As you continue along the north coast, the landscape gets wilder. Steeper cliffs, crashing waves and waterfalls right next to the road.
From Espaço Infinito – just next to the popular Seixal black sand beach – you can look back along the coastline you just drove. On a clear day you can see all the way back toward Santana. This view always reminds me of how small the island really is…
Miradouro Cabo Calhau – Porto Moniz
Porto Moniz is famous for its volcanic natural pools. Instead of stopping there, we chose this quieter viewpoint by the ocean. You can even walk down to the rocky beach, though it’s not suitable for swimming. It’s a peaceful alternative if you prefer fewer crowds.
Farol da Ponta do Pargo
The drive here takes you through some of the most remote parts of the island. Narrow winding streets, farmland and hardly any traffic. The lighthouse marks the westernmost point of Madeira and offers dramatic cliff views toward both the north and south coast. It feels like standing at the edge of the island – literally.
Sunset in Madalena do Mar
For sunset we headed south to Madalena do Mar. The roads become easier again with more tunnels and roundabouts.
This small beach town is known for its banana plantations but also has a quiet, charming atmosphere and a few waterfront bars perfect for watching the sun go down.
From here it’s only about 20 minutes back to Funchal via the Via Rápida. An easy and relaxed way to end the day.
I hope this gives you a realistic idea of what it’s like to drive around Madeira and inspires you to plan your own island loop. Of course you can always adjust stops based on your interests, the weather or how much time you want to spend at each viewpoint.
If you’re planning your trip and want to map your routes and get access to all my favorite hidden spots in one place, check out my Ultimate Madeira Travel Guide. It includes Google Maps links so you can experience Madeira your way.
